Rock Climbing Wisconsin: 4 Great Outdoor Spots Near Madison
Some of the Midwest's best rock-climbing opportunities are in Wisconsin, with prime sites clustered in the state's southwestern and central regions. This makes the lively capital city of Madison a great spot to use as a home base for visitors looking to include some outdoor climbs in their itineraries.
Before heading out on your adventure with friends and family, keep a few things in mind. The sport of rock climbing encompasses the traditional vertical climbs done using ropes and a harness, plus other thrilling activities such as bouldering and scrambling. Bouldering is performed on shorter routes – typically five to 20 feet – and no ropes are used. Instead, climbers are protected by spotters and thick padding on the ground.
Scrambling involves a mix of hiking, climbing and balancing, where you use both your hands and feet to help you navigate the terrain. Sometimes you're scrambling up steep inclines, while other times, as in talus scrambling, you're trekking more horizontally across a boulder field.
Here are four of the best Wisconsin rock-climbing spots that are within a 90-minute radius of Madison. Between them, they offer a mix of climbing, bouldering and scrambling so you can discover which kind of climbing adventures best suits you and your crew.
Devil's Lake State Park – Baraboo
With more than 1,600 established climbing routes and some 1,500 bouldering climbs, aka "problems," Devil's Lake State Park is known throughout the Midwest as a fantastic spot for rock climbing. It's also an exceptionally scenic locale, sporting 500-foot quartzite bluffs that tower over the east and west sides of its sparkling namesake lake. These bluffs, which come in attractive purple, red and orange hues, can be slick in spots, so visitors need to take care. But there are routes for climbers of all abilities, from newbies to pros, and large boulder fields for talus scrambling.
Bonus: several companies, including Devil's Lake Climbing Guides, offer climbing lessons and guided climbs.
Governor Dodge State Park – Dodgeville
Governor Dodge State Park is another one of Wisconsin's top rock-climbing locations. The spacious, 5,000-acre state park is filled with steep hills and deep valleys, craggy bluffs, two lakes and even a burbling waterfall. It also boasts a collection of giant sandstone rocks scattered throughout, which are perfect for bouldering.
The biggest grouping lies behind the Hickory Ridge Group Camp (Site B) in the park's northern tier and features some 100 problems that you and your group can have fun tackling. There are a few rocky promontories that everyone can climb, too, including the Qual Wall, which sports bolted routes. But whether you're rock climbing or bouldering, keep in mind that the rocks here are largely soft sandstone. If a particular rock feature or boulder is fragile or crumbly, stay off of it for your own safety.
Petenwell Bluff – Necedah
For decades, people have been flocking to Petenwell Bluff, also called Petenwell Rock, lured by its colorful sandstone ridge festooned with eye-catching spires. The ridge rises some 170 feet above the Wisconsin River, against which it's snugged, and offers dozens of climbing routes. Scrambling routes are available, too, although they're not as plentiful.
As you climb, keep an eye peeled for the bald eagles that often soar over the Wisconsin River. You may wish to set aside some time for hiking with family or friends, too, as there are plenty of spots to explore here (although the trails aren't marked). Nearby Petenwell Lake is also a popular recreational spot for boating and fishing with your crew.
Hillbilly Hollow – Coloma
If you prefer a quieter, more unique adventure, check out Hillbilly Hollow. Hillbilly Hollow isn't a large spot – there are only about 40 climbing routes and two dozen bouldering problems here – but this sandstone bluff is a charming gem partly due to the fact that it's hidden behind a wayside along Interstate 39/51 near Coloma.
Locate the wayside (Rest Area 81), then venture behind the restroom, where you'll spot a trail leading into the woods. Follow the trail to the base of the canyon or top of the ridge to get started. Fun fact: The 1,150-mile Ice Age National Scenic Trail passes just north of Hillbilly Hollow, giving you and your group more options for great outdoor adventures.
Experience more rocky wonders in Wisconsin at these four waterfalls where you're encouraged to get your feet wet.